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 Post subject: Remove /re-wire rear turn signals ***
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 2:11 pm 
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Joined: Sep 7, 2008
I bought a used rebel and the only real thing wrong with it is the rear turn signal light keeps falling off at the base do you guys have any recommendations or should I just buy a new base and mount the old light back on???
thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Jul 25, 2003
Motorcycle: 98 Valkyrie
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: GA
City: Vidalia
The rubber base is called a "stay". Odds are the bike was dropped and the stay was damaged.

Give Jack a shout for a new or used, or Honda or Bike Bandit for OEM.

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Duke
"Skills must be Learned"
------ Herb Christian


"Ask your doctor if medical advice from a television commercial is right for _you_."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 3:40 pm 
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Joined: Sep 7, 2008
Thanks Duke, will do.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Jul 25, 2003
Rebel: 450
Country: USA
State/Province: AL
City: Magnolia Springs
Jack has them. 1-800240-0393, closed on mondays.

Howard

_________________
Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body,
but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, proclaiming WOW--What A Ride!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Sep 8, 2008
I recommend installing a new stay. My bike had a broken right rear stay when I got it and the turn signal kept falling off like yours. Someone had tried to "fix" it by gluing it back together, and installing some sheetrock screws, but that didn't help much and made a mess. I installed the new stay today and discovered some pretty awesome wiring in the process. I'm amazed the turn signals worked at all. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:05 am 
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Joined: Sep 7, 2008
Thanks everyone I will do that.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2008 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Jun 28, 2008
Country: USA
State/Province: PA
City: Pittsburgh
I have a broken one now(due to my son). How do you replace these? My Clymer manual doesn`t show you how :(

Thanks-Jack


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2008 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Jul 25, 2003
Motorcycle: 98 Valkyrie
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: GA
City: Vidalia
Under the fender behind the plate you'll find a little box. That's the rat's nest.

Open it up, and unplug the two wires for that signal.

Pull them out of the harness-- the grommet, etc. They will have their own little loom (cover) that runs the length of them.

Once you've got them loose and are ready to feed them through the fender,

go to the stalk and look on the chrome for the big phillips screw. Go ahead and loosen that screw (it's a #3 as I recall; if you're using a #2, be careful you don't strip it). You don't have to remove it yet, but it's easier to loosen it while it's attached to the bike.

Go back under the fender. You'll see a nut very close to the hollow metal nipple the wires thread through. Remove that nut. You can now gently pull the entire signal assembly from the bike while feeding the wires through the fender.


HINT 1:

Get a bit of string and tie it to the wires so that you pull the string through the fender as you pull the wires out. This will make re-threading the wires much, much easier.

Once you have the assembly out, remove the large screw and gently pull the chrome section (the actual signal) off the stay as you feed the wires through the hollow nipple.

get your new stay, and thread the wires through it.

HINT 2:

Get some electrical tape. Position the wires such that one end goes through two inches before the other and lay them side by side. Run a couple of wraps of electrical tape around them to hold them in this position. Let the tape run "over" the back-set wire connector so as to prevent it from turning out away from the wire.

This will both stiffen the wire _and_ make it easier to get the two wires through the new stay.

HINT 3:

Run the string from the first HINT 1 through the stay. Tie the end of the string to the "long" wire just behind the connector. Tape to secure. You can use this as an "assist" to tug the wires from one side as you push through the other. Don't just try to pull the wire through, as you can pull the connector off, but some tugging will make threading the wires a _lot_ easier.

Once you have the wires through, pull them on through until you have no slack between the stay and the actual signal stalk. Install the screw to at least "snug."

"Using the push on one side, pull from the other with the string" technique, work the wires through the fender until you can fit the bolt for the stay and the hollow nipple (which doubles as an alignment pin) into place. This is, by the way, the most annoying part of the whole job.

Run the nut onto the mounting stud so as to not let the assembly fall out of the fender. Remove the string and the tape (unless you ignored my friendly suggestions and opted to do this the hard way :lol: ) and re-run the wires, re-making the connections in the rat's nest. Close the rat's nest.

Now go back and tighten the Phillips screw to secure the stalk to the stay. Again, it's just easier when it's on the bike.

After that, check your rotation-- yes, there's an alignment pin, but there are a couple of degrees of play, so be careful to line the lens up either with the other one, or at the angle you want it. Go back under the fender (last time, if you've done it right) and tighten the nut on the mounting stud, keeping an eye on the angle of the stalk, as it can rotate slightly while you're torquing the nut.


HINT 4:

Tightening the stalk to the stay before you tighten the stay to the fender means you won't be surprised by any changes in angle caused by the final fitment of the stalk. It can save you a lot of "well, reckon I need to loose everything up and start again" type headaches ;)

I've never seen this whole job take longer than twenty minutes in the hands of the least mechanically inclined person, so have fun with it ;)

_________________
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Duke
"Skills must be Learned"
------ Herb Christian


"Ask your doctor if medical advice from a television commercial is right for _you_."


Last edited by Duke on Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2008 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Jun 28, 2008
Country: USA
State/Province: PA
City: Pittsburgh
Thanks Duke, I really appreciate it bro :D

Jack


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 Post subject: Jack
PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Nov 20, 2008
Rebel: 450
Country: USA
State/Province: FL
City: Orlando
New to the site and have to ask "who is Jack"?

_________________
"Life's Been Good To Me So Far"
1986 450 Rebel, 1948 Chevy P/u
1991 Beaver Contessa, 1996 Geo Tracker
Navy SEABEE, 76-06


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:39 pm 
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Joined: Jul 25, 2003
Motorcycle: 98 Valkyrie
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: GA
City: Vidalia
Uneasy Rider wrote:
Jack has them. 1-800240-0393, closed on mondays.

Howard


Doesn't cost a thing to find out ;)

He's the only Rebel-specific salvage and accessory dealer in the world.

Seriously.

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Duke
"Skills must be Learned"
------ Herb Christian


"Ask your doctor if medical advice from a television commercial is right for _you_."


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 Post subject: Jack
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 1:49 pm 
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Joined: Nov 20, 2008
Rebel: 450
Country: USA
State/Province: FL
City: Orlando
Does he have a web site?

_________________
"Life's Been Good To Me So Far"
1986 450 Rebel, 1948 Chevy P/u
1991 Beaver Contessa, 1996 Geo Tracker
Navy SEABEE, 76-06


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 2:26 pm 
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Best Loser!

Joined: Aug 16, 2005
Motorcycle: 08 Versys, 97 C-10, 79 KZ650
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: NC
City: Newport
Yup, Jack's.

Dan

_________________
ImageImageImage


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 1:07 pm 
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Joined: Dec 20, 2007
Country: USA
State/Province: PA
City: Lancaster County
Would your following description fit pretty well for the 'remove, rewire, rear t.s.' for the 450?
thanks
suzzQ


Duke wrote:
Under the fender behind the plate you'll find a little box. That's the rat's nest.

Open it up, and unplug the two wires for that signal.

Pull them out of the harness-- the grommet, etc. They will have their own little loom (cover) that runs the length of them.

Once you've got them loose and are ready to feed them through the fender,

go to the stalk and look on the chrome for the big phillips screw. Go ahead and loosen that screw (it's a #3 as I recall; if you're using a #2, be careful you don't strip it). You don't have to remove it yet, but it's easier to loosen it while it's attached to the bike.

Go back under the fender. You'll see a nut very close to the hollow metal nipple the wires thread through. Remove that nut. You can now gently pull the entire signal assembly from the bike while feeding the wires through the fender.


HINT 1:

Get a bit of string and tie it to the wires so that you pull the string through the fender as you pull the wires out. This will make re-threading the wires much, much easier.

Once you have the assembly out, remove the large screw and gently pull the chrome section (the actual signal) off the stay as you feed the wires through the hollow nipple.

get your new stay, and thread the wires through it.

HINT 2:

Get some electrical tape. Position the wires such that one end goes through two inches before the other and lay them side by side. Run a couple of wraps of electrical tape around them to hold them in this position. Let the tape run "over" the back-set wire connector so as to prevent it from turning out away from the wire.

This will both stiffen the wire _and_ make it easier to get the two wires through the new stay.

HINT 3:

Run the string from the first HINT 1 through the stay. Tie the end of the string to the "long" wire just behind the connector. Tape to secure. You can use this as an "assist" to tug the wires from one side as you push through the other. Don't just try to pull the wire through, as you can pull the connector off, but some tugging will make threading the wires a _lot_ easier.

Once you have the wires through, pull them on through until you have no slack between the stay and the actual signal stalk. Install the screw to at least "snug."

"Using the push on one side, pull from the other with the string" technique, work the wires through the fender until you can fit the bolt for the stay and the hollow nipple (which doubles as an alignment pin) into place. This is, by the way, the most annoying part of the whole job.

Run the nut onto the mounting stud so as to not let the assembly fall out of the fender. Remove the string and the tape (unless you ignored my friendly suggestions and opted to do this the hard way :lol: ) and re-run the wires, re-making the connections in the rat's nest. Close the rat's nest.

Now go back and tighten the Phillips screw to secure the stalk to the stay. Again, it's just easier when it's on the bike.

After that, check your rotation-- yes, there's an alignment pin, but there are a couple of degrees of play, so be careful to line the lens up either with the other one, or at the angle you want it. Go back under the fender (last time, if you've done it right) and tighten the nut on the mounting stud, keeping an eye on the angle of the stalk, as it can rotate slightly while you're torquing the nut.


HINT 4:

Tightening the stalk to the stay before you tighten the stay to the fender means you won't be surprised by any changes in angle caused by the final fitment of the stalk. It can save you a lot of "well, reckon I need to loose everything up and start again" type headaches ;)

I've never seen this whole job take longer than twenty minutes in the hands of the least mechanically inclined person, so have fun with it ;)

_________________
NAASCAAR {aka suzzQ}
http://www.geocities.com/trlr_wow
Image Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 7:55 pm 
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Forum Administrator

Joined: Jul 25, 2003
Motorcycle: 98 Valkyrie
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: GA
City: Vidalia
Most of it. If I'm not mistaken, your wiring harness on the 450 is on top of the fender, though. I could be wrong. As far as removing the signals, getting the wires out of it, etc--

yes; it's the same for _any_ motorcycle.

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Duke
"Skills must be Learned"
------ Herb Christian


"Ask your doctor if medical advice from a television commercial is right for _you_."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Jun 12, 2008
Motorcycle: 1996 harley sportster 1200c
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: MA
City: Southbridge
i had that problem with my rear turn stems... i put clamps on and haven't had a problem since.. like radiater clamps. the kind that have the plastic keys that you remove. they looked so good that i put them on the front ones too.

like these.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/images/ ... _Drive.jpg

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outta my way,i don't know what i'm doin.

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