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 Post subject: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Ok, so here's the deal. A friend of a friend has a 1986 Honda Rebel 250 sitting in his garage. At some point or another someone tried to steal it and jacked up the ignition so that it is unusable. According to him, originally he was gonna fix it, and then time got away from him blah blah blah and now it's been sitting several years. He swears it is in running condition, and I am thinking about doing some 'horse trading' with him to get the bike. I was wondering how I could go about "hot wiring" the bike just to see if it really turns over, and to see if it will actually try to start if primed with a little fuel. I have looked at the wiring diagrams, but don't really know what I need to connect to what to try to get this thing started. If I can jumper the wires and it doesn't even try to start, I will be much more stingy in my negotiations (knowing that it may just be a good parts bike). If she busts right off tho, I would be willing to do a little more trading. Ya know....

I would really like to try and start the thing to see if the starter is working, if it has any fire, any knocks, etc etc etc. I really hate that they don't have a kick start for back up (not putting kick starts on a bike is still the worst idea ever, in my opinion....).

Thanks in advance for the help!

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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Mar 19, 2010
Motorcycle: Yamaha Midnight Virago 920
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: MI
City: Near Ann Arbor
If its been sitting several years, don't try to crank it right away.
I'd try turning it buy hand. Maybe putting it in fourth or fifth, pulling the pugs and trying to roll it. I might shoot some oil down the cylinders just as a precaution.
If it doesn't turn, don't force it.

With the Rebel, you don't "hot wire". The battery does not provide energy for the ignition.
The key switch, when set to off, grounds out the capacitor charging circuit.

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'87 Rebel
'02 Silver Wing 600
'83 Virago 920
'61 Buick


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 6:55 pm 
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Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Motorcycle: '95 EN500-A6, '80 CB400T (rig)
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: WV
City: Brandywine
What he said. But if you disconnect the key switch from the wiring harness, you'll see.... A bunch of contacts on the connector on the wiring harness side.

Look on a wiring diagram (there are some on this forum somewhere). I'm doing this from memory, so hopefully it's not wrong. <_<

The Black/White and Dark Green pins get connected together in the Off and Park position, which is what shuts the engine off by grounding out the CDI. Leave those alone. The Brown and Brown/White pins will get connected together in the On position, which is what turns the running lights on and off. The Black and Red pins get connected together in the On position, which supplies power to the starter button and the headlight and stuff.

Get some spade connectors and some scrap wire and make yourself a couple of jumpers. Jump the contacts on the connector in the same way that the contacts are closed when the key switch is on the On position. Then you should be able to start it.

Do not try to shut it down by pulling the jumpers. Doing so may remove the reference voltage from the regulator and cause havok, because the engine will continue to run until the CDI is grounded out. Instead, shut it down with the kill switch before removing jumpers.

The ignition switch on my 400 was broken, so I had to do some similar hackery to avoid sinking money into a key switch for a mostly worthless bike. I hardwired the reference voltage to the regulator and installed a toggle switch to turn the rest of the electrical system on and off. So it starts whenever you hit the starter and stops whenever you hit the kill switch. The headlight, indicator lights, running lights, brake lights, etc are all turned on and off as a unit by that toggle switch. I'm not condoning such hackery, but it works. ...Though it is technically illegal to have the headlight able to be switched off while the machine is running on any bike sold in the US since 1978. I should fix it properly someday, as should you with your bike. ;P But it works....

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Lee
1980 Honda Hawk 400 + 1990 Velorex 562 Sidecar
1980 CB900C + 1981 CB900C + 1998 Ural Deco Sidecar (Project)
1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 500
2005 Honda Rebel 250


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Yeah, I had planned on lubing up the cylinders and stuff before anything else, so the cylinders aren't dry.

And perhaps my "hotwiring" phrase wasn't quite correct, since technically you won't be touching the wires together to start the bike. The power runs through the starter button, not through the ignition. I get all that. ;)

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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Leaf wrote:
What he said. But if you disconnect the key switch from the wiring harness, you'll see.... A bunch of contacts on the connector on the wiring harness side.

Look on a wiring diagram (there are some on this forum somewhere). I'm doing this from memory, so hopefully it's not wrong. <_<

The Black/White and Dark Green pins get connected together in the Off and Park position, which is what shuts the engine off by grounding out the CDI. Leave those alone. The Brown and Brown/White pins will get connected together in the On position, which is what turns the running lights on and off. The Black and Red pins get connected together in the On position, which supplies power to the starter button and the headlight and stuff.

Get some spade connectors and some scrap wire and make yourself a couple of jumpers. Jump the contacts on the connector in the same way that the contacts are closed when the key switch is on the On position. Then you should be able to start it.

Do not try to shut it down by pulling the jumpers. Doing so may remove the reference voltage from the regulator and cause havok, because the engine will continue to run until the CDI is grounded out. Instead, shut it down with the kill switch before removing jumpers.

The ignition switch on my 400 was broken, so I had to do some similar hackery to avoid sinking money into a key switch for a mostly worthless bike. I hardwired the reference voltage to the regulator and installed a toggle switch to turn the rest of the electrical system on and off. So it starts whenever you hit the starter and stops whenever you hit the kill switch. The headlight, indicator lights, running lights, brake lights, etc are all turned on and off as a unit by that toggle switch. I'm not condoning such hackery, but it works. ...Though it is technically illegal to have the headlight able to be switched off while the machine is running on any bike sold in the US since 1978. I should fix it properly someday, as should you with your bike. ;P But it works....



That's what I was needing to know! ;) I have worked on a lot of Honda FL 250's (Odysseys) and basic principle is the same.... grounding out the coill/cdi to kill the engine. I just wasn't sure what to do with all of the other wires, and what was needed and what wasn't.

One other question about the Rebel..... How in demand are the parts? I was thinking if the bike was a waste, mechanically, it still might be worth parting out.

Thanks so much for the help! :hithere1:

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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Motorcycle: '95 EN500-A6, '80 CB400T (rig)
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: WV
City: Brandywine
There are a million billion zillion of them hiding in garage corners and sheds all over the world. I opine that's a double-edged sword; plenty of demand but plenty of parts bikes out there driving the price of used parts down. If I were to hazard a guess, I'd guess that the side covers might be the most valuable items, followed by maybe the exhaust (if it's still nice) and front brake system (if it's not all pitted up inside from 30-year-old watery brake fluid).

If I were me and it didn't look to need too awful many parts, I'd turn it into a ratty runner and use it for commuting, or give it to a buddy that wants to learn to ride.

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Lee
1980 Honda Hawk 400 + 1990 Velorex 562 Sidecar
1980 CB900C + 1981 CB900C + 1998 Ural Deco Sidecar (Project)
1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 500
2005 Honda Rebel 250


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:56 am 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Leaf wrote:
There are a million billion zillion of them hiding in garage corners and sheds all over the world. I opine that's a double-edged sword; plenty of demand but plenty of parts bikes out there driving the price of used parts down. If I were to hazard a guess, I'd guess that the side covers might be the most valuable items, followed by maybe the exhaust (if it's still nice) and front brake system (if it's not all pitted up inside from 30-year-old watery brake fluid).

If I were me and it didn't look to need too awful many parts, I'd turn it into a ratty runner and use it for commuting, or give it to a buddy that wants to learn to ride.


Yeah, I haven't looked to see how many were made, but I know they were a pretty popular bike. Seem to be a lot of parts available for them on ebay too.

I remember it being my dream bike when I was a teen.... I always wanted one. So, I would like to get it, and fix it up, if it is worth fixing up.... just depends on what it needs. I have seen them pretty cheap on craigslist ready to ride, so I don't want to spend too much time, or spend more money fixing it than I could buy one for. It would be cool to have around, just to make trips to the store and what not.... or maybe go for a ride on a weekend.....

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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:04 am 
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Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Motorcycle: '95 EN500-A6, '80 CB400T (rig)
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: WV
City: Brandywine
They get amazing gas mileage. I was getting a solid 68 mpg with a very heavy throttle hand on the mountainous commute to work.

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Lee
1980 Honda Hawk 400 + 1990 Velorex 562 Sidecar
1980 CB900C + 1981 CB900C + 1998 Ural Deco Sidecar (Project)
1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 500
2005 Honda Rebel 250


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Yet another bonus about them. Good looks AND good gas mileage!

I think i am gonna go over and tinker with that one and see what I can find out.....

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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:35 pm 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
OK, well, I went over and removed the spark plugs.... put a little oil down the cylinders.... put the bike in gear (with the plugs still out) and gave the engine a few spins to lube it up. Checked the oil level. Put the plugs back in. Then removed the air breather and spritzed some gas in the carb (along with putting some new gas in the tank). Put a jumper on the ignition, hooked up my truck to it to give it a jump (the battery is trash), and it fired up. It would actually sit and idle, but I had to slightly choke it to keep it idling. If I gave it much gas it tried to die, so I am guessing a carb rebuild will be in order.

So, after tinkering with it a few hours, I am debating with myself. It does obviously run, but needs carb work. The engine sounded ok.... no knocks or pings, and it wasn't smoking. The right hand side exhaust is leaking at the connection to the head. Some misc bolts are missing (looks like he had started taking it apart and cleaning things up and didn't put the bolts back). The seat and tank aren't in the greatest of shape. The seat will need reupholstered, and the tank re-painted. The rear tire looks great, the front tire would do for now but would need replacing pretty soon. The battery is shot so it would need replaced. The ignition is broke, so that would need replacing. The turn signals, front light, horn, side plates, etc look to be in pretty good shape. Front and rear fenders look to be in good shape. Front brake cable needs replaced.

Right now I can see where a person could drop several hundred into this thing. I am thinking maybe it is a better donor bike than a rebuilder, unless someone has lots of extra time and cash. And time is something I am in short supply of. I talked to the guy about everything that needs done, and basically bartered around with him to where it wouldn't cost me much to get it. So question is, is it worth it?

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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Motorcycle: '95 EN500-A6, '80 CB400T (rig)
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: WV
City: Brandywine
whammo77 wrote:
So, after tinkering with it a few hours, I am debating with myself. It does obviously run, but needs carb work.


They're not hard to rebuild. If a dummy like me can do it, anyone can. :3 And with a single carb, you won't even need a manometer.

whammo77 wrote:
The right hand side exhaust is leaking at the connection to the head.


Don't run to too much like that, or you might burn the exhaust valve. New crush gasket ought to fix that right up.

whammo77 wrote:
Some misc bolts are missing (looks like he had started taking it apart and cleaning things up and didn't put the bolts back).


I bet you can get a whole used engine bolt set on Ebay for cheap. Or are you talking frame bolts? Most of the bolts on these things have that broad round lip under the head, but plain ol' hardware store bolts with washers will work fine. You can look the Official Expensive Honda Bolts up with a fiche on a site like Cheap Cycle Parts, and then buy the same size friendly local hardware store bolt and a washer for like a 3rd the price...

whammo77 wrote:
The seat and tank aren't in the greatest of shape. The seat will need reupholstered, and the tank re-painted.


Eh, I'd leave the tears in the seat and just ride it. :P

Is there any rust inside the tank, or are you talking about just the outside?

I'm a big fan of the Rustoleum enamel rattlebomb for a rusty tank exterior. If you let it cure good for 2-3 weeks, it resists gas very well, and is cheap.

whammo77 wrote:
The rear tire looks great, the front tire would do for now but would need replacing pretty soon.


I'd replace them anyway if they are more than a few years old. I like Shinkos. Cheap and decent for the price.

whammo77 wrote:
The battery is shot so it would need replaced.


The batteries are pretty cheap at battery mart and such. Just call ahead and ask them to fill and charge it for you if you don't have a specific gravity thingamajig. :3

whammo77 wrote:
The ignition is broke, so that would need replacing.


Ebay breaker for the win. I bet you can get one with a key for $5-$10.

whammo77 wrote:
Front brake cable needs replaced.


Are you talking about the clutch cable or the hydraulic front brake system?

whammo77 wrote:
Right now I can see where a person could drop several hundred into this thing.


If there's nothing wrong with the engine, it sounds to be like you could get it decent for $250 or less with used parts off ebay, cheap tires, and inexpensive aftermarket cables and such.

whammo77 wrote:
I am thinking maybe it is a better donor bike than a rebuilder, unless someone has lots of extra time and cash. And time is something I am in short supply of. I talked to the guy about everything that needs done, and basically bartered around with him to where it wouldn't cost me much to get it. So question is, is it worth it?


If there is no rust in the tank, I think I'd offer $250 and go up to $500. It's probably worth $100-$200 more than that, but I am a cheapskate.

I think it sounds like a decent machine for the budget conscious who isn't afraid to wrench a little. I mean, I ended up paying $450 for this (viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26998) piece of junk, rusted to pieces, only running on one cylinder, and it sounds way way worse than the machine you're describing. :3 14,000 miles after getting it running, it hasn't had a whiff of mechanical trouble, though the electrical needed some TLC.

Imo, the nice thing about ratty bikes is you can ride the crap out of them and not worry about keeping them all shiny and new looking. :3

_________________
Lee
1980 Honda Hawk 400 + 1990 Velorex 562 Sidecar
1980 CB900C + 1981 CB900C + 1998 Ural Deco Sidecar (Project)
1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 500
2005 Honda Rebel 250


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Sep 30, 2012
Motorcycle: SHADOW, REBEL, NIGHT HAWK
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: AR
City: Forrest City
Leaf, that's as down to earth as it gets. Game plan 101.

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85 REBEL 250
93 NIGHTHAWK 250
83 NIGHTHAWK 650
"Semper Fi Do or Die Devil Doc ALWAYS Tries"
"Through the Gates of Hell for a Wounded Marine"


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Mar 19, 2010
Motorcycle: Yamaha Midnight Virago 920
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: MI
City: Near Ann Arbor
Do keep in mind the Rebel has a cold nature.
Needing choke to stay running at first isn't uncommon and the bog/die on throttle is typical. If when having run for a few minutes it still show no improvement, I'd bet a dirty carb. It should need many parts. Many of the gaskets are reusable so its a matter of a good soak and blow out.

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'87 Rebel
'02 Silver Wing 600
'83 Virago 920
'61 Buick


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:09 pm 
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Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Motorcycle: '95 EN500-A6, '80 CB400T (rig)
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: WV
City: Brandywine
Leaf wrote:
whammo77 wrote:
The right hand side exhaust is leaking at the connection to the head.
Don't run to too much like that, or you might burn the exhaust valve. New crush gasket ought to fix that right up.

I forgot to add.... I think you ought to replace both of them. I expect the PO had the exhaust off and didn't replace them. You're supposed to replace them every time the exhaust comes off, but YMMV. I've had the Junkmobile's off a few times for fresh paint and they haven't started blurbling yet...

Leaf wrote:
whammo77 wrote:
... tank aren't in the greatest of shape.
... I'm a big fan of the Rustoleum enamel rattlebomb for a rusty tank exterior. If you let it cure good for 2-3 weeks, it resists gas very well, and is cheap.

Also forgot to add: The Rustoleum enamel has to cure above a certain temperature, though, to obtain the fuel resistance. It's fine in the summer for 2-3 weeks, but if you paint in the winter you may have to put it in a building with a couple heat lamps shining on it to get it to cure right. In an ideal world, I'd suggest sticking it in the oven and cooking it on at the lowest heat setting for a couple hours, but I'd be leery of gas fumes exploding trying to do that to a tank...

Oh and... It's the gloss Rusto enamels that become fuel resistant like that. The sparkly ones and the flat ones will bubble and/or get gooey if you dribble fuel on them. Not sure about the semiglosses. I expect that they'd be fuel resistant, too, but not as much as the glosses, 'cos I think it's the gloss hardener that makes them fuel resistant.

If you paint the tank with the Rustoleum rattlebomb, don't paint all the way up on the fuel fill hole, or it'll peel there when the gas fumes get under the paint. Prep the surface good, prime up to just under the gas cap, and then shoot the topcoats slightly beyond where the primer ends under the gas cap. Coats have to be applied within 15-20 minutes of each other depending on temperature, or the undercoats will cure too much and the upper coats will bubble and peel. If you must sand and make it pretty, shoot all your coats first and then sand after the paint cures. If you wait too long between coats, let it cure for a couple of weeks before shooting the rest of the coats, and the paint will stick good then.

_________________
Lee
1980 Honda Hawk 400 + 1990 Velorex 562 Sidecar
1980 CB900C + 1981 CB900C + 1998 Ural Deco Sidecar (Project)
1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 500
2005 Honda Rebel 250


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:40 am 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
All very good suggestions there. Now, for the part you are gonna laugh at me about......

After talking with this guy, I can get the bike for like $100. Yeah, i kinda picked the bike apart and beat him down.... lol. Most people would think "For $100, I would take it in a heartbeat!". And yeah, I don't see where I can lose on it. Parts off of it are worth that. I just don't want to spend another $500 on it in parts.... ya know.... easier to just buy one for $800 that's already in good shape.....

So, all that said, I will clarify some of what I had written earlier......

It is the front brake cable that is missing. Technically, I guess it's a hose, not a cable though, so my bad. The clutch cable assembly is all there and functional.

I'm not all too worried about the tires.... I won't be riding at high speed, so if they come apart, oh well. Lol. I would replace them though as funds came avail.

As for the bolts that are missing.... the guy was taking off weird stuff... like the kick stand, and the rear turn signals and stuff. I dunno why. he talked like he had started to just take things apart and clean the bike all back up. Looks like he took out about 30 of them and quit. Lord only knows where they are now.... On a good note, there is a place that specializes in bolts about 10 minutes from where I live. Since I am in to rebuilding the Honda FL250 Odysseys, I have gone there many times. They seem to have just about every bolt you could ask for.... unless it is some off the wall weird bolt like that holds the tach on the Rebel. Luckily he didn't start taking the engine apart.

Going from front to back..... front wheel and disk brake look good. Tire, maybe 20% tread left. It does hold air though. Front fender is straight, but needs some paint due to scratches. Front forks, handlebars, grips, levers, tach, turn signals, etc are all in good shape. Just needs a new ignition. Mirrors are there and intact..... they could use a spritz of paint too though....

The motor is pretty clean... no signs of bad gaskets or leaks anywhere. The left tailpipe looks good. The right is slightly dinged up and has had some welding done on it down underneath the frame. I am assuming it got laid down at some point. That's prolly why the turn signals looks so good.... they got replaced! As mentioned earlier, the right side exhaust is leaking at the head. The bolts were loose, so I went ahead and loosened it it all the way off to have a look. The gasket is gone. So I will need to replace that before running it for sure.

The chrome side covers are still there and would look pretty good after being cleaned. No rust pits or anything. The tank is dreadful. It's not beat up, but it's chiped, got some pealing, etc. Inside of the tank looks surprisingly good. I was expecting it to be rusted all to heck, but it's not. The little cover that goes right behind the right chrome panel is missing. I believe it is plastic... can prolly find one pretty cheap I would think.

The seats are all in tact, however, they are pretty crispy and you can see cracks in them. I imagine they will just start coming apart if not replaced.

The rear wheel looks pretty good, other than on the left hand side where that little cover plate is. It is pretty chewed up. All I can guess is that they threw a chain at some point and it ate into it. Sprocket looks good. Current chain seems to fit it pretty good. rear tire looks to have about 80% tread left and is still holding air good. Wasn't flat to my surprise.....

Rear fender is straight, just has some scratches. Needs paint. Rear shocks look good. All the chrome on the rear looks good. Rear tail light looks good... not faded or cracked. Rear turn signals, tho not really attached properly at the moment, look good.

Where the bozo took off the kickstand, I will have to use an easy out... he busted off one of the bolts. Kickstand is still with the bike tho.

Front headlight works, horn works. Starter works but ever so often if makes a disturbing noise. Carburator is pretty clean on the outside. It is leaking a little bit of fuel right out of the very bottom of the bowl. I dunno if this is because of stuck floats or what. I have never messed with a Rebel carb. Guess I will see if/when I take it off.

I have done carb work before. I absolutely hate it, but I can do it. I am pretty mechanically inclined. Like I said, I play with the old fl250's alot. And when I say alot, well, I have like 7 or 8 of them out here..... 4 of them running currently (already went through everything on them) and currently rebuilding the other 4. Why so many? Between my wife and I we have 6 daughters! lol! I wanted something they could ride and not get killed on. Especially my youngest daughter, the dare devil..... One of the Odysseys I have owned and maintained since I was 17..... yup, over 20 years and still goin strong! That's kinda why I hate to jump off the deep end into another project... I already have 4 fl250's I am working on......

But anyway, the parts on the old fl250's are getting more and more scarce by the day, and people absolutely rape you for the parts on them. Ebay is ridiculous to try and get parts off of anymore. So, since the Rebel isn't much newer, I didn't know how reasonable the parts for them are.... I am sure there were thousands more Rebels made than the fl250's tho.....

Thanks to everyone for the help. I will go out and snap a pic of the bike and post it. Oh, almost forgot.... the guy let me bring it here to my house to tinker with... told him I'd let him know in a week or so what I decided....

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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys


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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:55 am 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Girls on the fl250's....


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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys
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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 11:03 am 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
The black oddy is the one I have had since I was 17..... it's my baby. Well, it WAS my baby.... It's now my youngest daughter's baby.....


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Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys
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 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 11:27 am 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Pictures of the Rebel....


Attachments:
DSCN4533a.jpg
DSCN4533a.jpg [ 187.17 KiB | Viewed 6583 times ]

_________________
Image

Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 11:28 am 
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Left side


Attachments:
DSCN4534a.jpg
DSCN4534a.jpg [ 199.65 KiB | Viewed 6583 times ]

_________________
Image

Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Starting a 250 Rebel with a busted ignition
PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 11:29 am 
Offline

Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Motorcycle: Honda Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OK
City: OKC
Front


Attachments:
DSCN4536a.jpg
DSCN4536a.jpg [ 184.31 KiB | Viewed 6583 times ]

_________________
Image

Toys:
1979 Yamaha XT 500
1980 Yamaha GT 80
1983 Yamaha Exciter 250
1986 Honda Rebel 250
(8) 1979 - 1984 Honda FL250 Odysseys
Top
 Profile  
 
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