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 Post subject: Re: Possible overheat?
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Apr 17, 2011
Motorcycle: 2005
Rebel: 250
Country: usa
State/Province: wa
City: PNW
Interesting. When I commute on the Rebel, its usually at 65-70, but only for a 9 mile stretch. I've gone to using the Honda 20/50 semi synth in it, along with the cooler burning plugs. Doesn't burn oil, and it runs like a champ.


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 Post subject: Re: Possible overheat?
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:43 am 
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Joined: Sep 9, 2004
Motorcycle: Suzuki Gsf1250
Rebel: 450
Country: Canada
State/Province: NB
City: Rusagonis
Actually, there have been a number of folks who have turned their idle down over the years. Mostly, I think it is in a misguided attempt to try to get a 'potato potato potato' harley idle lope out of a small, parallel twin engine. Glad you got the bike to work well, by setting the idle to spec. Kinda makes sense, doesn't it? Can't say I understand the 'stalling out at freeway speeds' response to low idle, though. that's gotta be a bit annoying (although clearly easily avoidable).

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 Post subject: Re: Possible overheat?
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 8:05 am 
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Joined: Feb 23, 2009
Motorcycle: Rebel 250 plus a few others
Rebel: 250
Country: Canada
State/Province: NB
City: Fredericton
I could only speculate that at highway speeds closing the butterfly altogether at high rpm would produce excessive vacuum in the intake tract that cannot be relieved through the idle circuit as would normally happen at idle. The little air holes are just too small for the volume the engine is trying to pump through there. As a result, the mix would go too rich. BMW's EFI system actually cuts off all fuel flow on closed throttle at rpms higher than about 2500 or so.

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 Post subject: Re: Possible overheat?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Jul 4, 2009
Country: USA
State/Province: AZ
City: Chandler
First of all, I live in Phoenix, AZ, and ride air cooled bikes in 115 degree+ temps all summer with no problems. They do a lot better than I do. If you did actually find gas in the oil, then you have carb problems, because a stuck float or a leaking float needle valve are the ONLY way it can get there. It could run with either one of those, depending on how bad it is, but it would run very rich, so rich you should be able to smell the exhaust. If you found gas in the oil, you need to remove and repair the carb, and do an immediate oil change. If there was "damage" to the plugs, what was it? What did they look like? Really black and oily?, black with carbon, too white/broken blistered insulators? Plugs are cheap, put in new ones anyway. I always set my valves to the loose end of spec, the adjustment will stay in spec longer that way. I have never seen an engine where the valve adjustment got looser, it always gets tighter, as the valve and valve seat wear and the valves becomes further recessed in the head, taking up the clearance.

I started out riding my Rebel at about 60, then was told by someone who should know that you could ride it at full throttle and it should last close to 80,000 miles, so I hopped on the freeway and did just that, for about 10,000 miles, before selling it due to comfort issues.

If you have any doubt about the engines condition, do a leakdown or compression test. Good readings don't mean there can't be something else wrong, but it means everything in the top end is ok.

I changed my oil every 1000 miles, using a decent grade of 20w50 car oil. I think it gives a better ring seal than synthetic, and is also less likely to leak through outside oil seals, like the shift shaft and countershaft seals.

Oh, and there is no way you went 125 miles on 1.3 gallons of gas on a Rebel. Just not possible. You measured something wrong somewhere.

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